A Few Hours ... Along King Street

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OLD TOWN ALEXANDRIA'S a city center with a base of colonial charm topped with a hearty helping of suburban commerce. With its small galleries, ritzy restaurants and boutique shopping, it's easy to assume Old Town is a bland, staid, button-up place rich in little but history.

It's worth remembering, though, that when Dupont Circle was hinterland, Adams Morgan was covered in trees and U Street hadn't been cleared, everybody who was anybody in what would become the D.C. area — including partier-in-chief George Washington himself — used to shake their knickers in Alexandria. And to this day, the city still feeds the indulgences of residents and visitors alike.

Express contributor Scott Reitz points out three places to challenge the better angels of your nature, especially if you like the combination of nicotine and coffee, fried food topped off with sinful desserts and drinks.

They're all located on or just off King Street, between Washington and West streets, within a 10-minute walk of the King Street Metrorail station on the Blue/Yellow Line. King Street is served by a number of DASH buses, including the free weekend shuttle service between Metrorail and Old Town's Market Square.

» MISHA'S: COFFEE AND CIGARETTES
Next to homes that have existed for more than two centuries, 15 years might not seem like a long time. But it's an impressive stint for any homegrown coffee operation, let alone one in a neighborhood with more than one Starbucks. Walk through the front door and you know you have stumbled on something good. Misha's serves coffee the way it's supposed to be: Strong and black with a heavy dose of neighborhood charm. Misha's coffee makes you want to linger, just as the smell of their house-roasted beans loiters in the street.

On one end of the place, small marble tables play host to patrons immersed in books, newspapers and private conversation. The real action, however, flocks around a large communal table on the southern end of the coffee house. Here — if you're lucky enough to drop by in the morning — you might catch Misha's in-house coffee roaster working her magic. This caffeinated Cleopatra plays the room while roasting coffee varietals from around the globe for Misha's signature blends while locals play chess, read papers and indulge in cigarettes. If you're a resident of neighboring jurisdictions where indoor smoking is prohibited, the fragrant mix of tobacco infused with smoky roasting beans might provide additional lure.

» EAMONN'S: FRIED EVERYTHING
Hopped up on caffeine and hungry? Head around the corner to Eamonn's for a Dublin chipper on steroids and then some. This is exactly what you'd expect when the meticulous owners of the esteemed Restaurant Eve, Cathal and Meshelle Armstrong take on fish and chips. Flaky, moist and succulent cod encased in a perfectly crunchy batter crust, paired with flawlessly cooked potato "chips." (The Eamonn's crew insists that the batter and sauces are healthy. The fried Mars bar, however ...)

An efficient staff serves your order relatively quickly but Eamonn's will never be fast food. Order yourself a Guinness, and listen as an iPod Hi-Fi kicks out an eclectic mix to find out why. Irish punk follows a Beatles remix of "Strawberry Fields Forever," inviting you to take your time as you dine, and chat with those who may share your table. Be sure to order the more than adequate small servings and save room for dessert. The fried candy bars, warm and oozing, have an undeniable appeal, but just be prepared — they're overwhelmingly sweet.

» VERMILION: DESSERT AND DRINKS:
While Old Town has been abuzz over PX, the semi-secretive lounge/speakeasy, if you don't know where to find it, Todd Thrasher's 1920s-inspired mixology lab will likely escape you. But you can satisfy your appetite for drinks and desserts at a place that's more out in the open.

For nearly four years, Vermilion has been building its reputation as a neighborhood restaurant serving simple food in a hip setting. In the evenings, you can enjoy live acoustic shows from the large convex bar. The cocktail list is an extensive twist on classic libations, and the dessert menu gives you a chance to sample sweets baked at sister bakery Buzz at the northern end of town.

If you're in the mood to recline, a burgundy bench lined with overstuffed pillows runs the length of Vermilion's lounge, inviting you to get cozy with an Espresso creme brulee or orange cranberry bread pudding. Be careful though — such comforts, could quickly become a regular habit, and next year's resolutions, are far, far away.

» Misha's, 102 S. Patrick St. (at King Street) 703-548-4089
» Eamonn's, 728 King St., Alexandria; 703-299-8384
» Vermilion, 1120 King St., Alexandria; 703-684-9669

Photos by Michael Grass/Express, Susan Biddle/The Washington Post and Larry Morris/The Washington Post