A Few Hours ... at Eastern Market

THERE'S SOMETHING EXCITING about entering Eastern Market when it's cold outside. The sights and the smells that come with that first look inside what's been called the heart and soul of Capitol Hill make the chilly trek up 7th Street SE from the Metro worth it.

The season's thinner crowds may offer fewer people-watching opportunities, but there's also more room to browse and time to ask questions of vendors who are experts on their wares. And, like the building itself, the stalls and the experience of shopping at them are decidedly old-school — a nod back to the era before Safeway, Giant and Whole Foods stores muscled out the little guys.

One of the other pleasures of browsing through Eastern Market is grazing. A black and white cookie here, a dill pickle there, an empanada on the side — these are snacks that make a trip to Eastern Market such a treat. So we'll focus on places to nosh during your trip to the historic market as well as items to squirrel away for later.

» MEAT MARKET: Those who frequent restaurants such as Ray's the Steaks and Michel Richard's Central may want to try their hand at making hanger steak at home, yet it's not so easy to find at places like Whole Foods and Giant. Bill Glasgow Jr., proprietor of Union Meat Company, carries it every day for $6.99 a pound. He also recommends to customers the flat iron steaks, which he believes will become more popular — and more expensive elsewhere.

Glasgow said:

Flat iron steaks are lean, full-flavored, and boneless. They should be grilled rare and don't need a marinade. This is the best value steak ($7.99 a pound) and it's good steak.

The market also specializes in aged, prime, corn-fed Black Angus, and pork from Nahunta Pork Center in North Carolina. For those looking for more exotic cuts, "if it's part of the pig, [they] sell it," which includes chitterlings, ears, feet, as well as thick-cut rind-on bacon, for traditionalists. Other meats include rabbit and milk-fed, locally raised veal.

Have a hankering for sausage? Canales Quality Meats offers more than 15 different sausages, such as bourbon fennel sausage, Thai chicken with ginger and lamb and pork sausage with fresh rosemary. On site, Canales makes chorizo, bratwurst, Italian sausage and North Carolina-style sausage in its walk-in cooler. Shoppers who want instant gratification can snack on a half-smoke dog from Manger's of Baltimore ($1.50) or one-quarter pound, all-beef hot dog or kielbasa on a bun ($1.75).

For those who'd rather grab a seat, Market Lunch — the local institution known for its crab cakes — has options for meat eaters. For less than the price of a crab cake, try the BBQ sandwich with slaw ($4.95). It's Eastern Carolina style: Slow cooked from pork shoulder spiked with red pepper flakes and a vinegar based sauce — no tomatoes. For sides, there's always fresh collards, baked beans, and of course, some of the best fries in town (speaking of vinegar, don't forget to douse them with malt.)

» Union Meat Company, Eastern Market's South Hall; 202-547-2626
» Canales Quality Meats, Eastern Market's South Hall; 202-547-0542
» Market Lunch, Eastern Market's South Hall; 202-544-0083

» GO NUTS: On Saturdays and Sundays in the farmers' market line, Dan Phil is the only guy in town who sells freshly boiled peanuts — what he calls "redneck caviar." Although he's no Southerner himself — he's a New Hampshire-raised Red Sox fan — he jokes that the recipe is his "family's secret." In actuality, he befriended two Georgia brothers who asked if he'd sell them at the market more than two years ago. They make them and Phil's been selling them ever since. At $5 a pound, they're not cheap. But bite into a fresh boiled peanut and notice how its raw chalky texture is transformed into a juicy, addictive snack.

Phil joked:

They'll make you want to put your feet up, open up a Pabst Blue Ribbon, and watch the sun go down. Or if you have electricity, watch NASCAR.

Those looking for a more genteel snack can look across the walkway to The Sweet Nuthouse for glazed savory or sweet pecans ($5, $9, and $17), or sweet and spicy almonds, made with sugar, spices and butter ($6 and $11). Not hungry or noncommittal? The Sweet Nuthouse folks will let you sample all three.

» The Sweet Nuthouse, on 7th Street SE, outside of Eastern Market's South Hall; 301-498-9423

» CHEESE AND VEGGIES: Inside the market, you can't miss Bower's Fancy Dairy Products. It's the stall where people flock like acolytes while Mike Bowers holds court as he explains why one cheese or another tastes so good. If it's not crazy busy — while he's at it, he cuts a sample for everyone in line. That can mean four, five or six samples while waiting.

Although he may not have that mouth watering Burrata (fresh cow's milk mozzarella cheese stuffed with a mixture of heavy cream and stracciatella) from last night's dinner at Dino in Cleveland Park, he does have a Bruder Basil, a Bavarian, creamy, smoked cheese that's a nice choice for making gratins, as well as a mild German Montagnolo that's flavored with both butter and blue cheese. For a super old-timey buy, pick up some heavy cream from Deleware's Lewes Dairy or fresh country tub butter from Pennsylvania ($3.99 a pound.)

And, then there are the veggies. Sure, it's tough to find berries, fruits or papaya in the farmer's line outdoors. Here, you'll still find produce to pair with that hanger steak: Brussel sprouts, fingerling potatoes, green beans, parsnips and other root vegetables. For leafy greens, there's also arugula and spinach by the pound. And while it's not veggie prime time, it's just a few weeks away from ramps, sugar snap peas and other spring vegetables.

» Bowers Fancy Dairy Products, Eastern Market's South Hall; 202-544-7877.

» GETTING THERE: Eastern Market is located on 7th Street SE between North Carolina Avenue and C Street SE, 1 1/2 blocks to the northwest of the Eastern Market Metrorail station on the Blue and Orange lines. Crosstown Metrobus lines stop within one block of the market. The 30/32/34/35/36 buses run on Pennsylvania Avenue, linking Upper Northwest, Georgetown, downtown and Ward 8 to Capitol Hill. The 90/92/93 buses run on 8th Street SE, linking Upper Northwest, Adams Morgan, U Street NW, Near Northeast, Barracks Row and Anacostia via Capitol Hill.

» EXPLORE the neighborhood using Metro Links.

First photo by Bill O'Leary/The Washington Post; all other photos by Melissa McCart for Express

Posted By Melissa McCart at 1:06 PM on February 21, 2007 Tagged in A Few Hours , Capitol Hill , Eastern Market , Free Ride , Out & About , Styles , The District

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