Eating Around: Treats From the Briny

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MUSSELS, FRITES and Belgian brews are accessible and relatively inexpensive bistro fare. Oddly enough, though, this simple and satisfying meal isn't all that easy to find in the District, despite a preponderance of seafood joints.

The largest selections of mussels piled high and steeped in a vat are available at Bistrot du Coin and Belga Cafe. The season for the poor-man's shellfish is July to April, the old-school rule for mussels is that they're most succulent between September and February.

At both places, moules are served marinieres (white wine, shallots, and garlic), in a curry sauce, or in booze — with fennel, celery and pastis at Bistrot du Coin, or in red or white ale at Belga. And who can resist a side of genuine fries? Served skin-on and twice fried in a cone with a side of mayonnaise, they're a perfect guilty pleasure for this relatively healthy dish. Those who'd rather pass may get as much satisfaction from dunking crusty bread in the broth.

And then there's beer. Traditionalists can stick with Stella, Hoegaarden, or the sweeter Delirium Tremens, while adventurous drinkers may steer toward a double or triple brew, representing more malt — and, often, alcohol.

While Bistrot du Coin has the standbys, its Belga where the selection is more ambitious, with a beer menu that's divided among Belgian whites, browns, ales, abbey and Trappist beers (smaller-production craft-brews of which Trappist monks oversee the brewing process), as well as fruit-infused Lambics.

» Bistrot du Coin, 1738 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-234-6969. (Dupont Circle)
» Belga Cafe, 514 8th St. SE; 202-544-0100. (Eastern Market)

Photo of mussels from Belga Cafe courtesy the restaurant