Do It Yourself: One Snazzy Dresser

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In our new semi-regular feature, writer and frequent DIYer Julia Beizer — with fiance Tom, a former carpenter who now works in the construction industry — will guide you through basic home-improvement projects and crafts.

THERE'S AN OUTDOOR SHACK at my parents’ house where old furniture goes to die. Or, rather, linger forever in a purgatory of dust and cobwebs. Naturally, this seemed like the best possible spot to score some free furniture.
I went home with my dad’s old dresser, circa 1967. It had lots of space and funky drawer knobs, and was a major improvement over the milk crates I’d been using.
But my dresser extraordinaire’s wood was stained a deep mahogany. It needed a makeover before it could truly blend in with its new family: A vast collection of birch veneer tables and bookshelves from Ikea.

» PREP: Refinishing wood furniture is messy and smelly, so it’s best to take it outdoors. Yes, you could do it inside, but sawdust from the sanding will stick to everything in its path, and you’ll need drop cloths and proper ventilation for the fume-ystaining process. Wherever you work, make sure to wear a mask or bandana to keep scratchy sawdust out of your throat.

» STEP ONE: Sanding. Repetitive, boring and rough on the hands, sanding is possibly the worst of all DIY activities. But you can’t transform a thrift store find without it.

First, remove the drawers and any hardware, especially metal. Attack expansive surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper; use fine-grit for crevasses and drawer pulls. Rub, rub, rub in the direction of the wood’s grain with medium pressure, until the old stain is gone, but the details of the woodwork remain intact.
Fold the sandpaper around a block of wood if you need a sharp edge to access nooks and crannies. Give your treasure one last once-over with the fine-grit paper, then brush off all the sawdust.

Impatient types may want to invest in a palm sander, an electric gadget that’ll do the hard work for you. Using that, it took us about three hours to strip the dresser.

» STAINING: Always test your stain in an inconspicuous spot, because it may produce unexpected results. We settled on a natural stain, but it revealed pinkish cherry-wood tones we didn't want.

You also have to choose between oil- or water-based stain. The latter offers a broader range of colors — merlot reds, antiquey greens. But these quick-drying formulas are less forgiving than their oil-based cousins, which can be smoothed on at a slower pace.

The stain also determines the type of varnish you’ll use in the next step. Essentially, oil and water don’t mix. It’s best to use a water-based varnish with a water-based stain, and the same goes for oil. Oil-based polyurethane varnish can give wood a yellowish look.

Now, dampen a rag or some cheesecloth with the stain and apply it to the wood, going in the direction of the grain. Let it soak in for a few seconds, then mop up the excess — you don’t want the stain to pool, especially a quick-drying water-based formula. Follow the directions on the can with regard to drying time; it can take as long as 12 hours between coats. Generally, two coats of stain will do.

» STEP THREE: Varnish. The final step in any refinishing job is two clear coats of varnish, which serves as a protective barrier. This is what saves your newly refinished possession from rude, non-coaster-using party guests.
Varnishes range from mellow matte to high-gloss sheen. Use a brush, not a rag, to apply the sticky goop — your hands will thank you. The stuff’s impervious to soap and water, and can only be removed with paint thinner (and sometimes that doesn’t even work). When we refinished our floors, I had polyurethane stuck on my arms and fingers for weeks.

If you like the natural color of the wood, you could forgo the stain all together and finish the piece varnish alone. Minwax — our brand of choice — offers tips for DIYers on minwax.com.

» IS IT WORTH IT: The sheer monotony of sanding makes this project a tedious one — just ask Tom, who did most of it. But the staining process is simple and satisfying and gives dramatic new life to old, dated furniture.

» SHOPPING LIST:
Quart of stain: $10
Quart of polyurethane: $10
Sandpaper, three packs: $12
Rags and brushes: $25
Total cost: $57
Optional palm sander: $30 to $50 — but well worth it.