SINCE THE RISE of ice-cream parlors that replaced corner bars during Prohibition, what had been an expensive and rare dessert was democratized by Americans, as Andrew Smith notes in his "Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink."
Where to find the real deal? Local favorite Gifford's offers homemade flavors such as peppermint candy, cinnamon and Mexican vanilla. Don't be discouraged by the crowds, but if you can't wait for your scoop, Moorenko's in Silver Spring is a sweet alternative. (Try the banana or cookies and cream.)
When she first opened the Dairy Godmother in Del Ray, Liz Davis had to convince customers that custard isn't a super-eggy treat. Custards have high butterfat content, but more egg yolks than ice cream, making it creamier and denser. The Dairy Godmother and Nielsen's Frozen Custard in Vienna offer a selection of these velvety desserts.