Will Rast of Funk Art
@ Fort Reno
Q:What's your song for summer?
A:"'I Ain't Nobody's Baby' by Sharon Jones."
The End Is Near for D.C.'s A.V. Ristorante Italiano
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Mt Vernon Square
BY THE END OF THE MONTH, the District will say goodbye to one more of its eating institutions when A.V. Ristorante Italiano, a mainstay on New York Avenue near Mount Vernon Square, closes its doors after 58 years in business. This follows the shuttering of the 52-year-old Yenching Palace — a Cold War landmark in Cleveland Park — and the 121-year-old Reeves Restaurant and Bakery downtown in June.
A.V. Ristorante, Yenching and Reeves were all casualties of rising rents or development opportunities that were too good to pass up. With the trio goes the stuffed fried artichokes, Peking duck and strawberry pies enjoyed by so many over the decades.
Like many restaurants in the area, the three played a major part in the country's political history. Deals and historical accords — like Yenching's role in resolving the Cuban Missile Crisis — were reached at their tables. They provided meals to the city's most illustrious citizens and politicians such as Herbert Hoover, Henry Kissinger and Helen Hayes, as well as to popes and rock stars.
But more than that, these restaurants encapsulated unique periods of dining history in the District. Whether they introduced a new cuisine to the city, fulfilled the needs of homesick expats and world travelers, or provided downtown employees with a quick lunch at a counter, they each played a role in changing the culinary landscape.
A.V. Ristorante was one of the first restaurants to serve Italian food in the city, introducing its patrons to polenta and risotto and showing them that Italian food was more than spaghetti and meatballs. It was also first to introduce New York-style pizza, better known to its owners as Abruzzi-style. One of its most popular items is the favorite pizza of Supreme Court associate justice and Jersey Boy Antonin Scalia. It also has a notable collection of opera 45s in its jukebox.
With its closing, A.V. Ristorante Italiano leaves its customers with many good memories — first dates, engagements, family gatherings — but also takes with it the stuff of an era in D.C. dining. So take the time to visit before July 28. Order some pizza and make sure to bring money for the jukebox.
» A.V. Ristorante Italiano, 607 New York Ave. NW; 202-737-0550 (Mount Vernon Square)
Written by Express contributor Jamie R. Liu
Photo by Robert A. Reeder/The Washington Post
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Addison Road
They don't make places like this anymore. Every new Italian place these days is some super-hip ultra-fabulous modern snooty locale that plays up whatever the current trend is. AV was timeless. Eating there was like entering an era that no longer exists. Or a Martin Scorsese film. By the far the best pizza in DC.
By Matt , Posted July 11, 2007 10:15 AMI don't think A.V. Ristorante Italiano was a casualty of rising rents. I believe they owned their building. It could be rising property taxes, but my bet is that they were just tired and wanted to cash out.
By gpliving , Posted July 11, 2007 12:28 PMNote that the link from "rising rents" refers to Reeve's Bakery. A.V. land is slated for development.
By mgrass , Posted July 11, 2007 1:01 PMThe food at A.V. Ristorante Italiano is awful. Perhaps this is a natural death, as many restaurants don't make it past 10 years.
By Ben , Posted July 11, 2007 3:42 PMSadly: first date with current fiancee, lunch at Fran O'Brien's. Closed.
Third date with current fiancee, lunch at AV. Closing.
I'm just sayin'!
By Valerie , Posted July 11, 2007 8:20 PM