Oktoberfest: The Season for Suds

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SEASONAL BREWS and hearty fare accompany Oktoberfest celebrations across the region.

The German party that began in 1810 in honor of the marriage of Prince — later King, later "Mad" King — Ludwig of Bavaria to Princess Therese traditionally featured a ceremonial keg-tapping of robust lager that was available only during the last week of September and the first two weeks of October.

"In the past, Oktoberfest beers brewed in March were stored over the summer and tapped for harvest," said Greg Engert, beer director for Alexandria's Rustico. "These ambers were more full-bodied, had higher alcohol content and kept longer." Since then, he said, German brews have lightened up. "The Hofbrau Fest Bier, for example, isn't as rich as it once was. It's a lighter lager."

Old Europe in Glover Park serves up a celebration every Thursday through Sunday in October. Guests can drink Oktoberfest Bockbier in steins ($4.50), half-liters ($5.95) or liters ($11.50). A menu of pretzels with mustard, wursts, dumplings and heartier entrees are also featured on the Oktoberfest menu.

People-watching is on the agenda at Capitol City Brewery's Oktoberfest in Shirlington, where partiers can get their swerve on for $25 on Sunday from noon to 6 p.m. Sample beers from more than 25 breweries, most from this side of the pond.

There's people-watching on tap at Rustico on Oct. 16 at the second annual "Don't Hassel the Hof Brau Fest," an Oktoberfest/'80s costume party during which visitors can pick up a stein for each Hofbrau Fest Bier purchased and also get a T-shirt featuring a reclining David Hasselhof, cheeseburger in one hand, beer in another.

And on Oct. 27, Rustico will host a beer lover's Oktoberfest. "Ironically, American beers are going back to the full-bodied brews of the past," said Engert. Many of these will be sold at the event, including Bell's Octoberfest, Left Hand Oktoberfest and Otter Creek — 13 in all.

At the event, held in the parking lot behind the restaurant (which will be closed, chef Frank Morales will man the grill. If that's not enough to nosh on, there will be treats on sale from the National Restaurant Group's other restaurants, including Evening Star Cafe, Vermilion, Tallula and Buzz Bakery.

» Old Europe, 2434 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202-333-7600.
» Capitol City Brewing Company, 2700 South Quincy St., Arlington; 301-998-8395.
» Rustico, 827 Slater's Lane, Alexandria; 703-224-5051.

Photo by Bill O'Leary/The Washington Post