Suds & Curds Get Cozy: Cheesetique and Rustico

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BEER LOVERS, REJOICE. The digs aren't all that's new at Del Ray's Cheesetique. "I just didn't have the space to do beer justice," said owner and self-proclaimed "Cheeselady" Jill Erber of the original space.

Though many of her customers seek out wine with cheese, she also promotes pairing it with beer. "Beer's acid and effervescence makes it a natural palate-cleanser. And, historically, they're crafted to go together."

Greg Engert, the beer guru and manager at Rustico, agrees. "Whether it's butter, caramel, nuttiness, fruit or spice, a well-paired beer complements cheeses with a range of flavors," he said. "With wine, a higher booze content, oak and tannins can clash with cheese."

So what beers pair with which cheeses? Erber pulled a selection of cheeses that Engert matched up for Express. The pairings went something like this:

» COW'S MILK CHEESES: Erber picked out mild, gooey D'Affinois from France and a hard, nutty Italian Piave Vecchio in this category. "The first reminds me of a mild grilled cheese and would be nice with something bready or toasty," said Engert, such as a pale ale from Otter Creek. "The second needs something with some hops, but not too overwhelming," Engert said, deciding on an amber ale such as Humboldt Red Nectar.

» GOAT AND SHEEP MILK CHEESE: Erber chose a honey goat cheese from Belgium, a goat and sheep mix with a green ashen center, and California truffle goat cheese that was super-big. Depending on whether they're fresh or aged, these cheeses were the most challenging since their flavors can range from fresh to funky.

"You need something to bring out the sweetness on the honey goat," Engert said, pairing it with the UniBroue Blanche de Chambly, a classic Belgian. The second was trickier. "I'm thinking that something medicinal, something with clove would be nice, like a Weinen Stephaner Hefeweis." For the third, he advocated something big and malty to bring out some sweetness: "Algauer, a strong, dark lager pairs nicely with the truffle."

Not ready to do it yourself? After this weekend, Cheesetique will open its back bar, where customers can navigate the cheese and beer selections themselves or get some help from on-site staff.

» CHEDDAR CHEESE: Erber selected one cheddar for the tasting: Kenny's raw Cheddar from a small Kentucky farm. "Hops," said Engert. "This is a hearty cheese that goes nicely with a big, hoppy beer." He suggested Victory HopDevil for this pairing.

» BLUE CHEESE: "Barley wine and blue cheese is a classic pairing," Engert observed when opening the Crater Lake Blue from Oregon. "Something with caramel apples, butterscotch and a hint of sherry would be nice." For this, he pulled a Smuttynose barley wine from Portsmouth, N.H.

» Cheesetique, 2403 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria; 703-706-5300.
» Rustico, 827 Slaters Lane, Alexandria; 703-224-5051.

Photos by Chris Combs for Express