Finding Good Wines at Decent Prices: A Grape Deal

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BENJAMIN WALLACE'S NEW book, "The Billionaire's Vinegar" ($25, Crown), tells the tale of the most expensive wine ever sold: a 1787 Bordeaux supposedly once owned by Thomas Jefferson that went for $156,000 at auction. That's a high price tag for a few glasses of vino. (And the bottle, it turns out, was likely a fake.)

But contrary to what Napa travel books and some wine mags suggest, it is possible to snag a tasty Merlot or Pinot Grigio without pawning your watch to pay for it. And we don't want you to resign yourself to Two-, er Three-Buck Chuck. "Price doesn't necessarily equal the value," says Christianna Sargent, beverage director at Domasoteca wine shop (1121 N. 19th St. NW; 703-894-5104). "The sweet spot is around $15 to $17. That's when you get out of the realm of cheap, sweet, undefined wines."

With that in mind, we asked a team of grape pros to suggest bargains worth uncorking for dinner — or a party — that run $15 or less per bottle. Then we invited three local oeno-fiends to taste and compare them at Domaso, the restaurant at the Hotel Palomar in Rosslyn. Last Friday, Andrew Stover, sommelier at Oya Restaurant; Paul Carlson, owner of Vinoteca Wine Bar; and Veronica Kunkel, owner of Arlington's Grape Juice shop and Restaurant Vero sipped, swirled (and sometimes spit) in a quest for recession-ready reds and whites. See the box, facing page, for what they said — and for details about where to snag the bottles they tried.

So, what's the secret to vine values? "You need guidance, and a good wine store is the place to get it," says Mark Phillips, executive director of the D.C. and Chicago-based Wine Tasting Association, who recommended two bottles for our tasting.

And don't fear the wine merchant: He or she really is interested in which food (be it caviar or corn dogs) you want wine to go with, and most relish the challenge of find nice cheap stuff. "People might be embarrassed to say, ‘I'm looking for something under $5,' but salespeople often have good advice," says Deb Harkness, who rates inexpensive varietals at Goodwineunder20.blogspot.com. And "once someone at a store knows your taste, it's like having a personal shopper," says Phillips.

Sampling as much vino as possible (while respecting DUI laws) will help you figure out your fave grapes. Most wine shops and grocery stores like Trader Joe's and Whole Foods hold frequent tastings. "It's about trying them and seeing what you like," says Laura Holmes Haddad, author of "Anything but Chardonnay: A Guide to the Other Grapes" ($20, Stewart, Tabori & Chang).

Looking beyond big names (Kendall Jackson) and regions (Bordeaux, Napa) can also cut a home bar bill. Like designer jeans, well-known wines command higher prices. "You'll need to expand your wine horizons," says Harkness. This might mean seeking "small, boutique wineries, which often have better values," says Stover. Or it could require hunting for sippables from "places in the world where labor is nexpensive: Southern Italy, Greece, Spain, South American countries," says Phillips.

Either way, quests for good-but-cheap stuff usually don't entail digging for chard in the Safeway markdown bin. "And I wouldn't drink anything from 7-Eleven," says panel taster Carlson.

Is it possible to spend too little on wine? Maybe, and this often depends on the grape. Pinot noir, laborious to grow, "is hard to find for under $15," says Sargent. But some lighter, pleasant whites can often be had for about the cost of the ham sandwich that would go well with them. "I used to think the cutoff was $5, but I just had a pretty good Czech wine that was $3.99," says Harkness. "I do stay away from Cabarnets and Chards that are really low-priced. If those types are under $6, they're mass-produced."

However much you pay for your next bottle, be sure not to overthink it. Since Socrates was a kid, wine has been more about camaraderie than impressing guests with stellar, pricey cellars. And, says Holmes Haddad, "if you're eating pizza, do you really want to drink a $50 wine?" And, besides, that bottle will soon be empty, meaning you're ready to sample more inexpensive, yet intoxicating fruit of the vine.

» The Cheap Sips
Local wine pros Peter Carlson (Vinoteca), Veronica Kunkel (Grape Juice, Restaurant Vero) and Andrew Stover (Oya Restaurant) weighed in on six wines costing $15 or less. Nos. 1 and 6 were recommended by author Laura Holmes Haddad; Nos. 2 and 5 were chosen by Domasoteca's Christianna Sargent; Nos. 3 and 4 were put forward by Mark Phillips of the Wine Tasting Association.

1. A to Z Pinot Gris, Oregon, 2006
($14.99) This bright, crisp white was the overall fave of our testers. Available at Cecile's Fine Wines, 1351 Chain bridge Road, McLean; 703-356-6500.
STOVER: This would be a good seafood wine.
KUNKEL : I'd put it with littleneck clams.

2. Picco del Sole Falanghina, Italy, 2006
($9.99) A complex, straw-colored white, this pick stumped our panel — none of them came even close to guessing its grapes. Available at Domasoteca.
KUNKEL: This has such a clean, lemony taste.
CARLSON: It's something you could do with salmon, I think.

3. Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier, California, 2007
($13.49) Tasters agreed that this slightly sweet white could take on spicy dishes but weren't uniform in whether they actually liked the stuff. Available at Trader Joe's.
STOVER: I'd pour this with Thai food.
KUNKEL: It tastes like pink grapefruit. Is this New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc?

4. Borsao, Campo de Borja, Spain, 2006
($5.79) The least expensive wine, this red tasted strongly of cherry fruit. In our survey elicit a mixed bag of responses - some thought it was fine, others thought it tasted cheap. Available at Total Wine & More.
STOVER: This isn't serious wine. It's more like it's for chugging.
CARLSON: But for the average person, it'd be good with food.

5. D&N Primitivo, Puglia, Italy, 2005
($9) Unusually full-bodied for the price, this bottle loves steaks — and our trio thought it'd also go well with, surprise, Italian cuisine. Available at Domasoteca.
KUNKEL: This is a good pasta wine.
STOVER: Or risotto.

6. Bogle Petite Sirah, California. 2006
($10.99) A juicy, medium-bodied red wine with luscious black berry fruits, this easy drinking red pleased some more than others. Available at Trader Joe's.
STOVER: It's not heavy, but I kind of like it. It'd probably be good with barbecue.
CARLSON: Yeah, It's got sweetness that could stand up to that.