Bang for Your Buck: Persimmon

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IT TAKES PERSISTENCE to land a seat at Persimmon. With a small location on Wisconsin Avenue in Bethesda and a big reputation, this upscale American bistro can be fully booked two weeks in advance. After a recent foray into the suburban restaurant capital, it's easy to see why.

Having made reservations three weeks in advance, a party of four came away thoroughly impressed with an interesting menu and excellent execution. There were several fish, poultry and meat dishes — including the signature barbeque rack of lamb that, while not cheap, is not unreasonably priced.

I'd enjoyed the lamb my previous trip, so in an effort to branch out, I jumped on the crab cake platter — featuring two perfectly sized cakes with no filler and healthy portions of delicious mashed potatoes and a corn hash. At $26, it was a bargain. Two in the group had the rockfish, and the bouillabaisse rounded out our entrees. Each was done exquisitely, making for a nice evening.

The appetizers were not quite as stellar, but they were nothing to complain about. The fried oysters fell short of their counterparts at Grapeseed, another Bethesda standout. The fennel and arugula salad was a hit, however.

With entrees ranging from $20 to $30 and a cozy, pleasant atmosphere created in the 60-seat establishment, Persimmon is a must for a special occasion. It can work equally well on a date or a parent's birthday, as was the case in our group. Just be sure to plan ahead.

» Persimmon, 7003 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda; 301-654-9860. (Bethesda)

Photo by Marvin Joseph for the Washington Post